In late 2018, a seismic shift took place in footwear — an epochal moment that now feels like a lifetime ago in fashion. Daniel Lee’s debut collection for Bottega Veneta broke the mould, introducing shoes that seemed almost revolutionary. Square-toed clunkers — sandals characterised by exaggerated, spatula-like soles that jutted out beneath the foot — and pumps with bulbous, stubby toes made their debut at fashion month. At first glance, they appeared hideous, almost grotesque; their unconventional shapes challenged notions of beauty and tradition.
However, within months, these shoes became a culture-shift phenomenon. They appeared on the feet of nearly every celebrity, editor, influencer and luxury insider. Retailers such as Vince Camuto and Shein swiftly produced their own versions — dupes — of the viral Lido sandal, a simple slide with an enormous, blown-up interpretation of Bottega’s signature intrecciato woven leather.
The designer behind these provocative shoes is Nina Christen, a Swiss shoe designer whose distinct vision played a crucial role. “It’s funny what you can make people wear if you do it the right way,” she reflected. For over a decade, Christen’s influence has subtly shaped contemporary shoe design, her work sinking into the industry’s subconscious, trickling from luxury houses to streetwear. She has collaborated with Phoebe Philo at Celine, Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, and the Olsen twins at The Row. Last month, Anderson appointed her as the design director of shoes at Christian Dior — an ambitious role and one of the most coveted in fashion today. Yet, Christen continues to pursue her independent vision simultaneously.
In 2022, she launched her own brand — Christen — a move born partly from frustration. She explained that her designs for other houses represented her taste, her perspective, “but they were never 100% myself.” Her opportunity arose when she met Paul Dupuy, an entrepreneur who co-founded Zoi, a health-tech start-up focused on longevity. Christen had designed uniforms for Zoi’s staff and clients, and Dupuy was so impressed he offered to help her create her own label. His familiarity with industry insiders, thanks to his mother’s fashion background and his network, helped turn her idea into reality.Dupuy raised $5 million in capital and took charge of logistics, including planning a store in Paris scheduled for 2026. Christen already possessed a comprehensive vision: beyond footwear, she dreamed of perfect Japanese denim jeans, a leather jacket, and fine jewellery — her debut piece being a diamond toe ring. Every detail was mapped out — the packaging, branding, logo and market positioning. Her shoes are produced in Italy by the same factories that serve luxury brands, ensuring impeccable craftsmanship. Price points ranging from $1,100 to $3,650 reflect her commitment to quality and her desire to compete at the highest level.
In late June, Christen’s Paris studio offered an intimate peek into her universe. The raw cement floor was set with more than 30 of her designs, arranged in a carefully curated grid. Among these, styles from Loewe’s spring 2023 runway stood out: cartoonish, fantastical creations — pumps embroidered with deflated white balloons, sandals blooming with hyper-realistic anthuriums, and red rubber pumps resembling Minnie Mouse. Christen was candid: “You can’t wear this for more than two hours. But Jonathan Anderson was very open to ideas that crossed the line between art and fashion.”
She has a profound love for the geometry of shapes. “When I think about toe shapes, it’s all about the square, rectangle, circle, oval,” she said. “What is the degree?” She wore a pair of pure white sandals that left most of her foot exposed, seamlessly bisected by a single strip of leather that ran through the big and second toes — like a strand of floss. The sole was thin, elongated, almost oversized beneath the toes.
“It’s about creating things we’re not used to yet,” Christen explained. “When I make something and I don’t know if I like it — that’s often a good sign.” Her work is driven by experimentation — she strives to redefine norms and challenge perceptions of beauty. She finds inspiration in the mundane, the ugly, even orthopaedic shoes — everyday items that, through her lens, become something more intriguing.
Her biggest seller after the first year? A grandpa-style slip-on boot lined with goat shearling. “Once you wear them,” she says, “you can’t wear anything else.” Her designs highlight the power of the everyday, transforming the familiar into avant-garde statements. — NYT
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