French fashion house Dior showed creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri's cruise 2026 and fall-winter haute couture 2026 collections at a fashion show in the gardens of the Villa Albani Torlonia in Rome on Tuesday at night.
Guests sat under transparent umbrellas as models marched past on a gravel walkway lined with hedges. They paraded sheer gowns covered with lacework, textured dresses with rows of ruffles and long, tailored coats - mostly in white, ivory and nude colors. A sharp-shouldered trench coat, military jackets and tailcoats over skirts brought contrast to the airy looks, as did a few dresses in red or black velvet.
After the show, Chiuri rounded the gardens for her bow as the audience stood, cheering and clapping, while mist rose from the gardens.
The catwalk presentation, which drew on references to Italian cinema and theatre, follows last week's cruise fashion show from Louis Vuitton, another LVMH-owned label, in Avignon, France.
The shows come as the luxury industry grapples with a prolonged slump in business, and a number of high-end fashion labels are seeking new creative direction to reignite interest from shoppers.
Over the last five years, Chiuri has established herself as a groundbreaking leader, blending activism, craftsmanship, and innovation to redefine the brand’s identity. Since taking the helm in 2016, Chiuri has championed feminism and social justice through her collections, making Dior a platform for powerful messages.
Her 2019 “We Should All Be Feminists” T-shirts became an instant icon, sparking global conversations about gender equality. Subsequent seasons incorporated slogans, symbolic motifs, and references to female empowerment, turning runway shows into potent statements. Chiuri’s respect for Dior’s heritage is evident in her reinterpretation of classic silhouettes, emphasizing artisanal techniques and sustainable practices. She has prioritized eco-friendly materials and collaborations that promote ethical production, aligning luxury with responsibility.
Her partnerships with contemporary artists and activists, including Judy Chicago, have expanded Dior’s cultural impact, fostering dialogue around gender, identity, and creativity. These efforts have garnered widespread praise for authenticity and influence.
The 2025 show, held in Paris, marked a significant milestone. It showcased a daring new direction—mixing couture craftsmanship with futuristic design elements. Incorporating digital innovation and sustainable fabrics, the collection reflected Chiuri’s commitment to modernity and environmental consciousness. Critics applauded the show for its boldness and relevance, emphasizing how Dior continues to evolve while maintaining its heritage.
As Dior advances under Chiuri’s visionary leadership, her body of work exemplifies how fashion can be a catalyst for social change, blending tradition with contemporary activism. The 2025 show underscores her role as a transformative figure, shaping the future of luxury fashion rooted in purpose and innovation. —Reuters
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