Along the highway in the Dora suburb of Baghdad, the decapitated trunks of dead date palm trees rise up through the sandy soil like fingers from a grave, relics of once-lush groves increasingly being supplanted by a construction boom in Iraq’s expanding capital.
Many of Baghdad’s orchards and gardens have been sacrificed to largely unregulated building over the past decade, reducing the green spaces that have traditionally helped keep the capital livable as temperatures increase in what is already one of the hottest cities in the world. Construction — both legal and illegal — is accelerating in Baghdad amid a serious housing shortage and what Iraq’s prime minister has described as laundered money poured into major real estate investments.
“We are gradually losing the living lungs of our city,” said Maryam Faisal, a lecturer at Al Farabi University College in Baghdad.
Baghdad, with its population of more than 7 million, is one of the largest cities in the Arab world. Intersected by the Tigris River, it was once the centre of the Islamic world, known for its elaborate gardens. But green space in the capital has contracted in the past two decades, to about 12 per cent from more than 28 per cent, Faisal said.
Shaded areas in Baghdad are more than 5 degrees cooler than areas with no plant cover, according to studies. Without trees and plants, concrete and metal surfaces absorb heat and then radiate it back, creating what are known as urban heat islands.
Iraq, with its declining water levels, intensified droughts and population surge, has been assessed as one of the most vulnerable countries to the effects of climate change. But successive governments have essentially ignored the growing crisis, according to environmentalists.
Muhmood Aziz, the director of planning for the Baghdad municipality, said the loss of green space had accelerated since 2003, when the United States invaded Iraq. He pointed to “the weakness of the Iraqi state and the weakness of the monitoring measures.”
In a city where summer temperatures have reached up to 125 degrees Fahrenheit, the heat and increased air pollution pose particular hazards for the poor, who have no access to air conditioning.
In the past few decades, Arabian Gulf countries, including Iraq, have warmed almost twice as fast as the global average, and more than many other parts of the world. Now, the worst months of summer are nearly unlivable.
In Basra, Iraq’s steamy coastal city, a recent New York Times report found outdoor workers at risk in the summer of heat stroke, heart problems and kidney disease from the heat.
The suburb of Dora, on the southern outskirts of Baghdad, was traditionally a mix of residential, industrial and agricultural land, dotted with huge date palm groves and citrus orchards.
Municipal inspectors routinely investigate reports of palm trees being illegally destroyed — often by pouring kerosene or gasoline on the roots — to allow owners to build on the land. But the municipality’s tree patrol, even backed by Interior Ministry forces, is no match for the frenzy of development.
“In Dora, for example, we go in the morning and see that trees have been cut down in the night,” said Aziz, the municipal planning director. “It is illegal to cut down trees, and if we catch them, we arrest them and put them in prison.”
Some groves have been razed for what is expected to be one of the biggest shopping malls in the Middle East, the Iraq Mall, with almost 6 million square feet of international brands, cinemas and dancing water fountains.
Real estate investment in Baghdad has become a prime tool to launder money in Iraq, notorious for corruption in politics and business, according to Iraqi government and local government officials. Property in Baghdad is routinely paid for in cash.
After the Iraqi government announced in November that $2.5 billion in public funds had gone missing in a tax scam, Prime Minister Mohammed Shia al Sudani said a significant part of the proceeds had been funnelled into prestigious Baghdad real estate projects.
For many Baghdad residents, the gardens are a reminder of a more gracious era before families were scattered by conflict, when children played in greenery and lunch was served outdoors. Around Baghdad’s predominantly low-rise residences, even the most modest homes often had a small garden.
In Adhamiya, one of Baghdad’s oldest neighbourhoods, one longtime resident, Nofa Abbas, 54, walked in what was left of her family’s garden, pointing out pink jasmine, lilies, pomegranate, date palm and magnolia trees. As is common in Baghdad, trees were protected from the sun with netting. Some of the palm trees, watered from a well, were planted by her grandfather in the past century, she said.
Adhamiya, with its huge orchards near the Tigris River, was traditionally one of the coolest areas of Baghdad in the summer. The thick eucalyptus and Oriental plane trees that dotted almost every street blocked the dust. - The New York Times
Jane Arraf
The writer is a Palestinian-Canadian journalist
Yasmine Mosimann
The writer is a Baghdad-based multimedia Journalist
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