Belgian fashion designer Anthony Vaccarello is leaving Saint Laurent after a decade at the helm, during which he tripled revenues and strengthened the French fashion house’s influence.
Parent company Kering announced the departure without giving a reason, praising Vaccarello’s creative vision and contribution to the brand. Chief executive Luca de Meo said the house was entering a new chapter, with its new creative leadership to be announced soon.
The 44-year-old designer’s final show, held in Paris on September 29, featured models in almost entirely gold outfits and was widely hailed as one of his best collections. In a cryptic message to guests at the Spring-Summer 2027 show, Vaccarello wrote: “What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remains.”
The collection prompted speculation that the gold theme symbolised his “golden age” at the brand. The New York Times described it as a “24-karat unofficial goodbye”, while Simon Longland, chief buyer at London’s Harrods, called it “a true fashion moment”.
Vaccarello’s departure comes as luxury brands face a global slowdown driven by weak demand from China and broader economic uncertainty. His exit marks the biggest personnel change at a major Kering brand since de Meo became chief executive in September last year.
Vaccarello took over from Hedi Slimane in 2016, gradually developing a distinctive aesthetic while respecting Saint Laurent’s heritage. His designs became associated with metallic fabrics, modern silhouettes and younger streetwear influences.
Under his leadership, Saint Laurent’s revenues tripled, reaching $3.2 billion in 2023, before declining as the post-pandemic luxury boom gave way to more cautious spending.
His celebrity following, including Kate Moss, Dua Lipa, Zoe Saldaña and Hailey Bieber, helped establish his cross-generational appeal. The brand also expanded into film production, co-producing several movies, including Jacques Audiard’s musical hit Emilia Pérez.
Reflecting on his decade at Saint Laurent in an interview with CNN in May, Vaccarello said: “It was like a blink, and at the same time it was intense, it went so fast. It’s such a beautiful job, it’s such a privilege to do that.” -AFP
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