Men’s Fashion Week kicks off in Paris on Tuesday and from Véronique Nichanian’s farewell at Hermès to Jonathan Anderson’s latest Dior Homme show, several key moments are set to define the season.
Over six days, 66 fashion houses will present their Fall/Winter collections across 36 runway shows and 30 presentations. After a year of major creative shake-ups, this edition marks a period of relative stability, with newly appointed designers settling into their roles and refining their visions.
However, economic uncertainty continues to loom. Weak sales in recent years, particularly in China, have forced brands to reassess priorities. “We’re in the midst of an economic crisis and that has repercussions on creation”, said Marie Ottavi of Libération, predicting more pragmatic collections focused on commercial viability. Franck Nauerz of Le Bon Marché and La Samaritaine echoed the sentiment, noting a shift away from experimentation towards predictability.
One of the most emotional moments of the week will come on Saturday evening, when Véronique Nichanian presents her final menswear collection for Hermès after 37 years. The 71-year-old designer leaves behind a brand defined by understated luxury and timeless masculinity. Her successor, London-based designer Grace Wales Bonner, has already been announced and will debut her first collection for the house in January 2027.
Anticipation is also high for Dior’s menswear show on Wednesday afternoon, marking Jonathan Anderson’s second outing for Dior Homme. While his debut menswear collection was widely praised, his womenswear offering last October drew mixed reactions. Now, the Northern Irish designer faces growing expectations to solidify his creative direction. “There’s a lot of anticipation”, said Alice Feillard of Galeries Lafayette.
Among emerging names, French designer Jeanne Friot will stage her first official runway show on Tuesday afternoon. Known for her inclusive and socially engaged designs, Friot opens the week ahead of Pharrell Williams’s Louis Vuitton presentation. Italian designer Luca Magliano, winner of the 2023 Karl Lagerfeld Prize, will also make his runway debut, alongside newcomers ERL, KML, Sonia Carrasco and Ssstein.
Notable absences include Loewe and Saint Laurent, creating space for independent brands such as Lemaire, AMI and Rick Owens. Established names like Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto remain on the calendar, while Simon Jacquemus is set to close the week with a star-studded show at the Picasso Museum. — AFP
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