4 rules for buying the best olive oil

I’ve always cared about olive oil, probably more than most. Even in my early 20s, when I was broke and still learning how to cook, long before becoming a cookbook author and recipe creator, I kept two bottles on hand: one for cooking and another for moments that called for something more special — the arrival of perfect summer tomatoes or a fluffy flatbread still warm from the oven. It felt a little dramatic at the time.Now, while I know it’s a splurge, I usually have seven or eight open at once. That’s not because I think everyone should, but because I’ve seen how much olive oil can change what you’re eating and different producers make oils with a range of tastes. Having two on hand — one sturdy, affordable extra-virgin for cooking, and a more vibrant, nuanced one for drizzling over vegetables, whisking into vinaigrettes or just mopping up with bread — can offer so many options.The problem is, we’re taught to treat olive oil like an afterthought — something to cook with, gloss over a salad, maybe drizzle at the end. But when the oil is good, really good, it becomes the anchor, the thing that ties a dish together. So what makes a good one?2Look for a dark containerQuality oil should come in metal or dark glass. Light (especially ultraviolet light) degrades olive oil, breaking down its antioxidants and causing it to oxidize faster, which leads to rancid, stale or “cardboardy” flavours. If your oil is in clear glass, which can still happen with great small producers, just store it in a dark cabinet or pantry. And always store it away from heat, which can damage the flavour and quality.The oil needs to be fresh so those fruity, peppery or grassy notes bloom in the pan and carry flavours into every bite. In the case of my olive oil and chile-fried eggs, the oil is infused with garlic and smoked paprika while keeping the yolks bright yellow against the brick-red oil in the pan. An old or poorly stored oil would just leave it all tasting flat.4Smell your oilIf your olive oil doesn’t smell like anything, it probably won’t taste like much either. A great oil should smell green, fresh, alive. Give it a sniff before pouring: Even once-vibrant olive oils can start to lose their aroma after a while. If the oil smells bland, it’s best for sautéing, roasting or baking rather than finishing. If it smells rancid (or waxy), toss it. Pour the good stuff over things that are otherwise simple, like just-grilled bread rubbed with garlic, a savoury yoghurt dip with lots of lemon and salt, or a warm bowl of brothy beans. Remember that the best olive oils don’t shout. They just make everything taste more like itself. And when the oil’s as tasty as it should be, you’ll be sure to use it up long before it fades.— The New York Times