The hidden burial ground in a cove in Sidab

BY Anwaar Mohammed Al Aamri

Oman, over its long course of history, has many burial grounds located in different locations. The beehive tombs, spread in different parts of the country, although have no remnants in them, are technically considered as burial grounds.

But of the many unique locations, the burial ground hidden between the mountains of Sidab towards one of its remote beach is perhaps one of the most intriguing.

Did you ever imagine that a cemetery is lying hidden in a cove in Sidab? Who is buried in it? How does this cemetery look like? How do you reach it?

Oman is known for its many political relations with other countries due to its geographical location. In fact, if we trace Oman’s history, we would come to understand its importance for different earlier civilisations. As of today, it is becoming an international economic centre not only because of its airport but also because of the strategic importance its ports play in the global exchange of goods.

Therefore, different people from different cultures had visited Oman for various reasons. Oman is also a beckon of peace in the Middle East. Its peace and order including its safety index have been known globally. It also is one of the most tolerant countries amongst the Arab nations. Even today, Oman is amongst the best rated Arab country for acceptance of other religions.

The cemetery in Sidab is located in Sheikh Jaber Cove and as such, has adopted the name Sheikh Jaber Cove Cemetery. It is a fine example of Oman’s tolerance as this cemetery is known to be a Christian burial ground which is why others call it the Cove Christian Cemetery.

The cemetery is said to be the burial ground of 13 dead soldiers. They were from Britain. They were soldiers of the Commonwealth armies that fought in World War I. The most prominent person buried in the cemetery is George Edward who died on 26 November 1958 at the age of 31. Ellen Swindells, Edward’s son, was buried with his father. Wells Thoms was buried in 1971 at the age of 40. John Oummina was buried in 1914.

The full cemetery ground is shaped like a square and is elevated from the ground and can be reached by climbing 4 flight of stairs. Although there are no fences, the columns that indicate the outline of the cemetery is painted white.

Each of the tombs has its own unique shapes. The majority of them however are either square or oval in shape. On top of these tombs are carved rocks where the information of the dead person is written including the name, age, date of birth and date of death.

Some tombs have a cross on them — two lines intersecting perpendicularly. It is a symbol of Christianity’s beliefs. It a symbol practised throughout Europe and Western Asia. Some additional words were also inscribed such as “dearly beloved son”, “ever in our thoughts”, “in loving memory of”, and “well-done thou good and faithful servant”.

The burial ground’s location is quite challenging to reach. There are two ways to reach the cove’s location and both are dangerous .

One of the paths is through a steep mountain. A parking lot in Sidab has a direct connection to an Omani cemetery. Passing through this cemetery, a rugged pathway would lead to a crack in between mountains. One has to climb this mountain, hike a few metres and climb another set of the mountain passing through remote beaches before reaching the cove. There are marks along the path, so people will not lose the way. There are aids such as stairs and ropes to help the climber to climb easily and be safe. This hiking trail is more than 3 km long.

Since the hike can be challenging, it is important to wear comfortable sneakers and comfortable and light clothing.

The other way is through the sea. Hiring one of the local boats near a village in Al Bustan, the ride can be faster than the hike but the boats might off-load in a different cove depending on the tide.

As of late, the cemetery and Sidab are becoming popular as hiking destination. Because of its location, it offers enough challenges for both amateur and advanced hikers.

If you are planning for a visit, make sure to take all safety precautions. There is no doubt that you will enjoy the views of the mountains and the sea. You will be astonished when you see Sheikh Jaber Cove Cemetery.