If you’ve spent time in Oman, you’ll know that many trails across the country remain largely untouched by most travellers. As August drew to a close, my hiking season officially began.
I chose to explore with Hamdoon, my seasoned guide, renowned for his passion for discovering uncharted paths. I particularly enjoy hiking with him, as he often opts for lesser-known trails rather than the popular ones. We carefully selected a perfect day—partly cloudy with a gentle breeze—ideal conditions for exploring one of the many scenic routes in the West Hajar Mountains of Oman.
Having previously explored numerous trails across Oman, I was accustomed to day hikes, returning to basecamp each evening. This expedition, however, marked my first attempt at a long, two-day trek in Oman’s rugged terrain. My past hikes in India and Europe had been in greener, more forgiving environments, but Oman’s mountains are harsh—rocky, arid, and sometimes breath-takingly barren. The absence of lush greenery presented a different challenge, adding to the allure and sense of adventure.
My backpack was packed with essentials: a sleeping bag, tent, rain jacket (given the forecasted rain), a warm jacket for the night, six litres of water, and sufficient food for the journey. Hamdoon’s pack carried a substantial load. The primary goal was to build stamina in these intense conditions, preparing for more long-distance trails and venturing into less trodden paths.
By 8:30 am, we arrived at Jabal Hatt, parked our vehicle, and adjusted our backpacks before setting off at 9 am. That initial moment—the start of our trek—always fills me with a thrill. Leaving civilisation behind, walking towards emptiness, offers an unrivalled sense of freedom. As hikers, we seek this exhilaration: the absence of network signals, no immediate help nearby, only nature and solitude surrounding us. The trail begins at the far end of Jabal Hatt Road, just past the resort.
The trail began gently, rocky and gradually ascending. About thirty minutes in, we reached a junction with signs pointing in different directions. Though initially planning to go towards Birkat Al Sharaf, Hamdoon’s experience guided us toward Bilad Sayt, which was unmarked but recommended. The overcast weather made the ascent easier. We soon reached a viewpoint offering breathtaking views: the village of Bilad Sayt below, Snake Canyon winding through, Jabal Hatt on the right, Al Huwaib on the left, and beyond, Al Wajma. From above, the view reshaped my perspective, reminding me of the world’s interconnectedness. A perfect spot for a memorable photo.
After a brief photography session, we continued along the cliffside trail, heading towards the mountain behind Al Huwaib village. The ascent began in earnest, with the sun gradually piercing through the clouds, illuminating the rugged terrain. We crossed three mountains before reaching the trail’s highest point at 2,355 metres. Reaching the summit is always a rewarding experience, and this time was no different: a gentle breeze greeted us, and the panoramic views were breathtaking, even with the clouds adding a touch of mystery.
Our plan for the day was to camp on the mountain. Hamdoon pointed out a suitable spot from the top—a flat area near a small mosque, which marked our campsite. We descended towards the mosque, discovering that the landscape transformed into lush grass—a surprising sensation given Oman’s usual rocky, arid terrain. The greenery felt almost magical, like discovering Aladdin’s cave. During our walk, we found rainwater harvesting tanks — a testament to the villagers’ resourcefulness — and filled our water bottles, quietly expressing gratitude to those who had arranged this precious resource in such a remote location.
Reaching the campsite, I admitted to myself that I was exhausted. It was my first camping experience in Oman’s mountains, and I was pleasantly surprised to find the mosque well-equipped with essential supplies for an overnight stay. I pitched my tent outside the mosque, while Hamdoon preferred to sleep inside, being more accustomed to spending nights in such settings.
Hamdoon took charge of preparing dinner, and I helped him. It felt almost luxurious enjoying meals packed from civilisation after a long day’s trek. As darkness settled over the mountains, we moved to a nearby cliff to establish a network connection and check in with our families. From the edge, the view was mesmerising: in the darkness, Al Huwaib village’s tiny lights flickered in the distance, a reminder of civilisation far below.
By then, we’d covered approximately 11 kilometres — with another 10 ahead the next day before reaching our final destination. We decided to rest at the mosque to conserve energy for the continued journey.
The next morning, waking to the birdsong and gentle breeze was a sublime experience. There was no rush, only peaceful stillness. I took some time sitting inside my tent, gazing at the stunning landscape. All I wanted was more mountains, more trails — an endless craving for adventure.
After a quick breakfast, we packed up and headed towards Misfat Al Abriyeen instead of retracing our steps to Jabel Hatt. Hamdoon, our knowledgeable guide, led the way, making the journey enriching. The trail was mostly downhill, with the sun shining brightly, highlighting the importance of hydration. We passed rainwater harvesting tanks and relished the refreshing rainwater. We soon encountered a family with children, an elderly man, and a donkey carrying supplies, greeting us warmly. Despite increasing heat and dehydration, I was captivated by the raw mountain beauty, feeling grateful for every precious moment on the trail.
Finally, we arrived at a small village where an elderly man welcomed us warmly. Sitting in the shade, he offered us Omani coffee and dates. We shared some trail food with him, and in that quiet, simple exchange, a genuine connection blossomed. It wasn’t about words or laughter but about human kindness and shared respect — a true reflection of the journey’s spirit.
The final stretch brought us to Misfat Al Abriyeen, one of Oman’s most picturesque villages. As we descended along the winding paths, the sight of flowing falaj channels filled us with joy. We took a moment to sit beside the water, laughing about our struggles and triumphs from the past two days. I knew these memories would stay with me forever.
With help from a local villager, we arranged transportation back to our car. Before leaving, we stopped at the famous Rogan café in Misfat for a well-deserved meal. The flavours, the warmth — it was the perfect ending to an unforgettable adventure.
This two-day trek left an indelible mark on my heart, a reminder that the most profound experiences often lie off the beaten path. If you’re inspired to explore this trail, I highly recommend contacting Hamdoon Al Hashmi on Instagram (@7amd0on). His guidance will ensure your journey is truly memorable.
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