On a hot June day, our group set out on an exciting trip to cross Wadi Al Aa’la—a narrow, rugged canyon deep in the Jabal Shams area. We started near the small village of Kurb, with the aim of reaching the village of Yasab. There were five of us: Nadhira, Rami, Sultan, Mohamed, and myself. We were all eager to take on the challenge, but also fully aware of how tough and unpredictable the terrain could be.
Our plan was simple but important: camp near Kurb on Friday night, then get an early start on Saturday to cross the wadi before the afternoon heat and potential rain. The summer weather in Oman can be extreme—the temperature earlier that day was 44°C, and the last thing we wanted was to get caught out as the clouds gathered.
Our journey began in the afternoon. Nadhira arrived at 2:30 PM to pick me up from Mawaleh. We then headed north, driving along the outskirts of Muscat towards Rustaq. As we approached the mountains, the scenery started to change dramatically. Oman’s landscape is quite different from the rest of the Gulf countries. While many Gulf states are mostly flat deserts or wide plains, Oman has tall mountains, deep valleys, and narrow wadis cut out over thousands of years. This makes it ideal for outdoor activities like hiking, climbing, and canyoning—things that could really help boost travel and tourism in the country.
We passed through Wadi Al Sahtan—a scenic area known for its steep cliffs and green patches—and took a few moments to appreciate the views. The drive was quite intense, especially as the road became narrower and more winding. We eventually met up with Rami, who was coming from Yasab, and then continued along a rough, steep track that clung to the mountainside. The views here are unforgettable—canyons plunging hundreds of metres, rugged peaks towering above.
After an hour or so of driving, we reached Kurb at around 7 PM. The temperature had dropped from the scorching heat of the day, reaching a much more comfortable 28°C. We hurried to set up our tents, cook some food, and relax under the clear night sky. Our friends from Yasab started arriving around 11 PM, and we all prepared ourselves for an early start. Sleep was short, but the excitement was high—we knew we had a long day ahead.
We woke around 4 AM, energised by the cold mountain air. Rami set up his portable coffee machine, and soon we were all drinking fresh, hot coffee that really woke us up. After a quick breakfast, we packed our climbing gear—ropes, harnesses, anchors—everything needed for a technically challenging day. I looked back on an earlier trip in September 2019, when I first crossed this wadi with friends including my wife Marta and my daughter-in-law Sally. That experience had been tough but incredibly rewarding, and I was eager to see how this attempt would compare.
The climb started on loose scree, a mixture of small stones and gravel that tested our balance. We moved steadily, knowing the crossing involved descending four big drops—15 metres, 70 metres, 30 metres, and another 70 metres—each requiring careful abseiling. The first few went without issue, but then we encountered a problem: our rope had twisted during one of the descents, making it impossible to continue. We spent nearly three and a half hours trying to untangle it, which was frustrating and put us on a tight schedule.
To make things worse, dark clouds appeared overhead, and we could see rain in the distance. Realising we didn’t have much time left before the weather turned worse, we made the decision to turn back. Pushing on might have been dangerous, especially on slippery rocks. I climbed back with Mohamed and Nadhira to retrieve the rope from the top of the final drop. It took about an hour, but finally, we rejoined Rami and Sultan at the bottom of the wadi.
We took a few moments to rest, eat some snacks, and decide our next move. With the weather worsening, we knew it was safest to head back rather than risk being caught in the rain in such a remote spot. The hike back was tiring, but just as we reached the foothills, the rain started falling gently, cooling everything down and making the rocks a little easier to navigate. The clouds hanging over the mountains made everything look dramatic—an image that highlights Oman’s unique landscape, quite different from the flat dunes most see in the region.
Walking back the way we came, we felt relief and satisfaction that we had made the right call.
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