On a clear Friday morning, I found myself eager to explore a new corner of Oman I had only previously glimpsed on Google Earth. As an enthusiast of the country’s striking landscapes, I often spend moments imagining the terrain in vivid detail — a habit that has fuelled my passion for discovering its hidden natural treasures. Over the past two decades, this curiosity has led me to identify and document around 45 canyons across Oman, a land renowned for its diverse geography, from rugged mountains and vast desert plains to lush wadis and dramatic gorges.
This particular day’s adventure began early on the Sayq Plateau, a high-altitude expanse in the Al Hajar Mountains. Standing in the cool dawn air, with its crispness invigorating, I was accompanied by my wife and Jeffrey Rose, a renowned archaeologist affectionately known as Abou Warda, whose expertise has deepened our understanding of Oman’s historical landscapes. Our destination was Al Bawarid, a lesser-known tributary of Wadi Sallut, a canyon system that offers a glimpse into the geological history and natural beauty of Oman’s interior.
The Sayq Plateau itself is a captivating scene, characterised by rolling hills, terraced farms, and unique limestone formations. At around 2,000 metres above sea level, it forms part of the Al Hajar mountain range, which is often described as the 'Oman Mountains' or ‘The Green Mountains’. This range is among the oldest on Earth, dating back over 100 million years, and has shaped the country’s terrain over millennia. The plateau also encompasses terraced agriculture and traditional villages that reflect the region’s ancient adaptation to its rugged environment.
As we descended into Al Bawarid, the landscape quickly became more challenging. The canyon was steep and strewn with loose scree, requiring careful navigation. The terrain here is typical of many of Oman’s wadis—dry riverbeds that fill with water during sporadic rainy seasons—and showcases a remarkable array of geological formations. Towering rocks and narrow passages framed our path, echoing the slow yet persistent forces of nature that carved these features over countless years.
One of the most striking moments came when we encountered a sheer drop of approximately 60 metres—the kind of natural feature that raises both awe and respect for the region’s geological complexity. We paused, taking in the expansive view that stretched around us. The silence was punctuated only by the gentle trickle of water in the distance, a reminder of the intermittent streams that sustain life in these arid surrounds. These wadis serve as vital ecosystems, nurturing flora and fauna adapted to survive in extreme conditions.
Our exploration led us past ancient rock formations, shaped by erosion and tectonic activity, forming caves and overhangs that once offered shelter to early inhabitants. Oman is famous for its petroglyphs—rock engravings that span thousands of years of human history—many of which have been discovered along wadis and mountaintops. In fact, Oman boasts an extensive array of prehistoric petroglyph sites, with some dating back as far as 8,000 years. These engravings depict animals, hunting scenes, and abstract symbols, providing a fascinating window into the lives of its early peoples.
After enjoying the rugged beauty of the canyon, we noticed a distinctive pyramid-shaped mountain, with structures perched atop it. Intrigued by its unusual shape, we decided to investigate. A dirt track led us to the base of this mountain, and we commenced a climb. The ascent took approximately 30 minutes, with each step heightening our anticipation of the views to come.
Reaching the summit, we found a small basin — most likely an old water collection site — alongside the remains of an ancient mosque. Such structures are evidence of Oman’s long history of settlement and trade, especially in remote regions where water sources were precious. The summit offered a panoramic vista of surrounding mountains, deep valleys, and sprawling desert plains. The colour palette was astonishing: earthy browns, vibrant greens in the terraces, and the shimmering blue of distant waters from wadis hidden below.
We took time to photograph the scene, capturing the silent grandeur of the landscape. These moments of stillness often reveal details missed in passing. As we descended, our thoughts shifted to the next phase of our journey: an evening setting up camp near Hail Al Masbit, a fertile area rich with ancient archaeological sites and natural springs.
The drive to Hail Al Masbit, just half an hour from our current location, offered another perspective of Oman’s varied terrain. We could see evidence of traditional life still thriving in the area, with farms, stone-built houses, and water channels. As the sun dipped lower, casting golden hues over the landscape, our gratitude for being able to encounter such a diverse and untouched part of the country grew stronger.
The next day, we woke with the sunrise, eager to continue our exploration. On our way to Muscat, we planned to stop and examine some petroglyphs carved into the rocks of Wadi Halfein, situated between Birkat al Mawz and Qurai. The prospect of uncovering ancient art and history filled us with anticipation, promising yet another unforgettable experience in the heart of Oman.
With our spirits high and our cameras at the ready, we set off, excited for the discoveries that lay ahead.
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