A few months ago, a seasoned team of French canyon explorers, driven by their passion for discovery, returned to the Sultanate of Oman for the fourth time. Their mission was to embark on the inaugural exploration of one of the Sultanate's major wadis, commencing from the majestic Jabal al Sarah.
I waited for more than fourteen years for this moment, which was sparked by discovering a mysterious green mark on Google Earth. Back in 2009, trails leading to this enigmatic spot were spotted, beginning in the village of Yiqa, nestled between Al Rustaq and Ibri, just an hour and a half from Muscat.
My first trip to explore the canyon started from the mountain with two friends Rigel and Mona. We left Muscat early morning on a Friday towards Jabal Shams.
In May 2022, the first exploration unfolded, with the team venturing from the mountain to the downstream of the canyon. The journey commenced at dawn on a Friday, leading them to Aaqabat al Mashbek, the last accessible village by car, situated near the starting point of the canyon in Jabal al Sarah. A one-hour hike revealed the green mark, perched hundreds of meters below a towering cliff.
Despite the challenging terrain and the absence of a range finder, the allure of the canyon, with its breathtaking views, captivated the explorers. After an intense photo session, the team sought respite under a splendid juniper tree, indulging in a well-deserved lunch.
Upon their return to the village, the explorers encountered friendly locals who, over cups of traditional "Kahwa" and dates. They expressed disbelief at the team's ambitious plan to traverse the canyon down to Yiqa.
As the day wore on, the explorers met Mohammed and his grandson, engaged in crafting "Iqals" from their goats' wool. Mohamed's grandson, displaying hospitality, led the team to a unique "cold water dispenser" — a goat skin waterskin hanging from a tree in the village square. The refreshing water, drawn with a skilled technique, showcased the resourcefulness of the locals in maintaining freshness even in the scorching May heat.
“Can you show me how I can drink from this container,” I asked the young boy.
He untied a rope at one end of the skin bottle and asked me to lift the back of it with one hand and let the water flow in my other hand to drink from it. It was not very easy in the beginning but I succeeded after a couple of trials and the water was really fresh despite the heat of May.
“It is made from goat skin” explained the young guy, ”It keeps the water fresh in summer.”
Grateful for the warm hospitality, the explorers bid farewell and embarked on their lengthy journey back to Muscat.
However, for me, the plans were already in motion for the next adventure — an exploration of the canyon from the opposite end, starting in Yiqa and moving upstream.
(To be continued).
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