A few months ago, a team of French friends and canyon explorers returned to Oman for the fourth time to join me in the inaugural exploration of one of the major wadis in the Sultanate, starting in Jabal al Sarah. I had been anticipating this moment for more than fourteen years.
Back in 2009, I noticed a green mark on Google Earth images, along with several trails leading to it. The trails I observed start at the tip of the canyon in the village of Yiqa, situated on the road between Al Rustaq and Ibri, approximately one and a half hours from Muscat.
My first exploration trip to study the canyon, commencing from the mountain and proceeding downstream, was in May 2022, accompanied by two friends, Rigel and Mona. We departed Muscat early in the morning on a Friday for Jabal Shams. It took us around three hours to reach Aaqabat al Mashbek, the last village accessible by car and close to the beginning of the canyon in Jabal al Sarah. An additional hour of hiking was necessary to reach the spot where we could see the green mark I had spotted on the satellite pictures. It is situated hundreds of meters below the massive cliff on which we were standing. I could not measure the exact drop that day because I forgot my range finder at home, but the images on Google Earth depicted a height difference of more than 500 meters.
Oman's mountains stand as silent sentinels, etched against the sky, inviting travelers to explore their heights. The Al Hajar mountain range, dominating the country's northeastern landscape, boasts peaks reaching over 3,000 meters, offering a playground for hikers, climbers, and nature lovers. Jabal Shams, the country's highest peak, proudly showcases its grandeur, attracting daredevils seeking the thrill of scaling its precipitous cliffs and relishing panoramic vistas that stretch for miles.
It's not just the mountains that captivate explorers; Oman's wadis add another layer of allure to its natural splendor. Wadis, or dry riverbeds, transform into paradisiacal oases during the rainy season, revealing crystal-clear pools and lush vegetation hidden within their rocky confines.
The allure of Oman's mountains and wadis extends beyond their sheer beauty. These landscapes hold significant cultural and historical value, embedded in the country's heritage. Locals often recount ancient tales and legends associated with these rugged terrains, adding a mystical charm to the already enchanting scenery.
We captured numerous pictures of this breathtaking place we just explored that overlooked the canyon below. By the time we finished our photo session, it was already 1 pm. Subsequently, we opted to sit in the shade of a magnificent juniper tree for lunch.
After our break, we retraced our steps to the village where we encountered some locals who invited us for some “Kahwa” and dates. They numbered seven and were all surprised when I mentioned our plan to cross the canyon all the way down to Yiqa someday.
We encountered a villager named Mohamed and his grandson sitting in the shade of a tree, crafting “Iqals” from the wool of their goats. “We sell them to Emirati tourists when they come to Jabal Shams,” he informed us. The day was excessively hot, and when I requested water, Mohamed’s grandson guided me to their “cold water dispenser.” There it was—a waterskin hanging on a tree in the center of the village square.
“Could you show me how to drink from this container?” I asked the young boy. He untied a rope at one end of the skin bottle and instructed me to lift the back of it with one hand, letting the water flow into my other hand to drink from it. It wasn't very easy at first, but after a couple of attempts, I succeeded, and despite the May heat, the water was remarkably fresh. “It's made from goat skin,” explained the young lad, “It keeps the water fresh in summer.”
As it was getting late and our journey back to Muscat was long, we expressed gratitude to our hosts for their warm hospitality and drove back home. Mentally, I was already planning my next trip to study the canyon, this time starting from the other end of the wadi in Yiqa and going upstream. (To be continued).
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