Following a hiatus occasioned by the Covid pandemic, I had the pleasure of resuming my annual ‘learning on location’ study visits to the Sultanate of Oman in January 2023. As a scholar escort for the ‘Arabian Adventure in Oman’ programme, I have frequently enjoyed accompanying guests on this unique cultural immersion journey to one of the most fascinating countries in the world.
Our group of thirteen consisted primarily of adult students from the Institute for Learning in Retirement at Frederick Community College in Maryland. The institute has sponsored a comprehensive program of courses in Middle East and Islamic Studies for more than two decades.
In advance of this unique adventure, we met several times to review books and articles, study the itinerary, learn about Oman’s history and modern renaissance, and discuss cultural nuances and appropriate etiquette. We attended a pre-departure orientation briefing in Washington, DC, hosted by the Embassy of Oman at the Sultan Qaboos Cultural Center.
Upon arrival in Muscat, we met our learned and amiable guide, Qais, of Zahara Tours. On Day 1, we embarked on a sunset cruise aboard a traditional dhow from Marina Bandar. During a sumptuous dinner in Muttrah we were introduced to frankincense water and other Omani culinary specialities, including traditional shuwa.
In the days that followed, we sampled intoxicating scents at the Amouage perfume factory, wandered through art galleries featuring the work of renowned Omani artists, and were welcomed by the proprietor of a private museum dedicated to the preservation of Oman’s history. The scale and beauty of the Royal Opera House Muscat, a world-class venue for the performing arts, reminded our guests of the importance of Oman’s cosmopolitanism and outreach to world cultures.
Flying to Musandam, we were welcomed by a local guide and, also, by Iman, a dear friend whom I had not seen since my previous journey to Oman in 2020. Accompanied by Iman, we explored the restored Khasab Fort and the ancient petroglyphs of Wadi Tawi. During our stay in Khasab, we had the additional pleasure of reconnecting over lunch with ‘Eida, a local activist and champion of women’s health, education, and social welfare whom I had met previously during a research trip.
En route to a mountain safari to Jabal Harim, the highest mountain in Musandam, we stopped at Khor Najd to admire the breathtaking view of the lagoon. On the next day, we set sail aboard a dhow for a full-day cruise to Kumzar, a remote village with a rich history spanning hundreds of years, located at the furthest tip of the Musandam Peninsula. Before leaving Khasab, the women in our group were invited to Zaree Khasab, a local tradition where Omani hostesses dress guests in traditional clothing, apply henna to their hands, and serve local delicacies.
From the port we boarded a ferry to traverse the Strait of Hormuz, observing the flow of sea traffic through this critical chokepoint. Disembarking at the port of Shinas, we travelled to Suhar where its distinctive square-towered fort has been meticulously restored. Inspired by the colours and architecture of Persia and Central Asia, with elements of Omani design, the Sultan Qaboos Mosque in Suhar is distinctive from many others in the country.
Proceeding into the interior of Oman, we stopped for lunch at the blue sulphur springs of Ain Sahban, followed by a visit to Al Hazm castle, a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. In the plains of Al Dakhiliyah, we explored the mysterious beehive tombs Bat, Al Khutm, and Al Ayn, a trilogy of ancient burial sites steeped in mystery.
Nizwa, the cultural capital of Oman, enchanted us with its lively Friday market and vibrant souq. We admired the imposing fort and climbed its towers, enjoying a panoramic view of the city and surrounding palm oasis. After visiting the fort of Bahla, a Unesco World Heritage site, we drove to the old town to observe the remarkable craftsmanship of Omani potters. In Jabreen, we explored its 17th century castle, renowned for its painted ceilings and intricate woodwork.
Venturing into the desert from Bidiya, we were enthralled by the magic of Rimal Al Sharqiya, riding atop dunes in 4x4 vehicles, witnessing the shifting sands, and marvelling at the glorious sunset. We were warmly welcomed by the Bedouin community, and spent an unforgettable night under the stars at a desert camp. Sitting around a campfire, we listened to stories and traditional music, immersing ourselves in the rich Bedouin culture.
The final leg of our journey took us to Sur, where we learned about the traditional craft of dhow building. We visited the picturesque coastal town of Ras al Jinz, renowned for its turtle nesting sites. Here, we witnessed the incredible sight of baby turtles making their way to the sea, an awe-inspiring symbol of nature’s resilience and the importance of conservation.
Our last stop before returning to Muscat was Wadi Beni Khalid, a hidden oasis nestled amidst rocky cliffs. We hiked through canyons, swam in crystal-clear pools, and marvelled at the lush vegetation that thrives in this desert paradise.
As our study visit to Oman ended, we were filled with indelible memories of its culture, history, and natural beauty. The trip was an enriching and immersive adventure that provided an opportunity for us to appreciate diverse landscapes as well as the warm and welcoming people of the Sultanate of Oman. From exploring Muscat’s iconic landmarks to venturing into the mountains and deserts, every moment was filled with awe and wonder for that captivating country.
Our journey was made even more special by the friendships formed and knowledge shared. Each member of our group brought a unique perspective and expertise, contributing to a rich learning experience. Together, we embraced the spirit of adventure, discovering the hidden treasures of Oman. As we bid farewell to that extraordinary land, we left with a deeper understanding of Oman’s rich heritage and a profound appreciation for its vibrant culture. The ‘Arabian Adventure in Oman’ study trip will forever remain a cherished memory, reminding us of the power of travel to broaden our horizons and connect us to the world.
Linda Pappas Funsch is planning the next ‘Arabian Adventure in Oman’ study visit for early 2024. Among other destinations, it will include the Governorate of Dhofar. She can be reached at lindafunsch@gmail.com
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