Saint Laurent goes for gold in Paris show that may be Vaccarello’s finale

Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello unveiled a head-to-toe gold collection of slinky dresses and textured tailoring at Paris Fashion Week, marking a decade since his first show for the French fashion house.
The spring/summer 2027 collection, presented outdoors at the Trocadero fountain, came amidst reports that Vaccarello could be preparing to step down from his role at the label, which is owned by luxury group Kering.
A raised runway sat beneath a giant gold chandelier as models walked past in shimmering looks that emphasised Vaccarello’s signature mix of glamour, sharp tailoring and sensual silhouettes.
Gold dresses featured raised embroidery, while brocade skirts and jackets were paired with sharp collars. Gold trench coats added structure to the collection, reinforcing its metallic theme and giving the show a distinctly theatrical atmosphere.
Behind the models, the Eiffel Tower appeared to glitter in the distance, adding another layer of spectacle to the outdoor presentation.

The star-studded front row included Blackpink singer Rosé, model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Oscar-winning actors Eddie Redmayne and Rami Malek.
As the show progressed, the palette shifted dramatically. The final looks featured sweeping black gowns with billowing sleeves and long trains, providing a striking contrast to the predominantly golden collection.
The presentation also included a musical performance by actress and singer Charlotte Gainsbourg, who performed in a classic Saint Laurent black suit before Vaccarello appeared to applause from the crowd, smiling and waving.
Vaccarello joined Saint Laurent in 2016, succeeding Hedi Slimane as creative director and has been credited with expanding the label’s reach while maintaining its distinctive identity.
His decade at the house has coincided with significant changes in the luxury fashion industry, with Saint Laurent becoming one of Kering’s key brands.
The collection arrives as the company navigates a challenging period. Saint Laurent’s revenues fell 6% last year, although Kering said in July that the brand had returned to growth during the first half of the year.
The latest collection offered a fittingly dramatic celebration of Vaccarello’s 10 years at the house, combining gold, black, glamour and architectural tailoring against one of Paris’s most recognisable landmarks. — Reuters