The secret to juicy, never-burnt kebabs

By Naz Deravian

The siren song of skewered meat grilled over a live fire until smoky and perfectly burnished is universal, going back thousands of years across civilisations. The practise was most likely born out of convenience: Where pots, pans and utensils lacked, a long, sharp stick or a sword got the job done.
We’ve traded in the swords of our ancestors for skewers shared with loved ones. But the process is still simple, continuing to sustain at a moment’s notice and able to anchor an easy weeknight dinner, a casual backyard get-together or even a boisterous tailgate.
Best of all, we’ve had a long time to refine the process: The tips below will help ensure you get the best results, time after time — no sword necessary.
Use a Single Ingredient Per Skewer
Though skewers stacked with meat and veggies may be eye-catching, they’re not so great on the grill. Different cuts of protein and vegetables cook at varying times, which means you could end up with burned zucchini and undercooked chicken on the same skewer. Stick to a single ingredient, and keep the pieces similar in size, so everything cooks evenly.
Space Out Your Vegetables
For some kebabs, it helps to position the ingredients tightly together to keep the protein from drying out. But veggies, such as mushrooms, bell peppers and zucchini, release a lot of water, so you want to leave about a quarter inch between each piece to ensure you get those crispy bits at the edges.
Marinating Matters
Flavourful marinades ensure juicy kebabs. If you’re short on time, a simple marinade of oil, salt, pepper and acid (lemon or lime juice) can get the job done while you heat up the grill. But if you have the luxury of time, a yogurt-based marinade yields tender, juicy bites of meat.
Choose Your Skewers Strategically
If grilling meat for a large crowd, consider wooden or bamboo skewers, which are widely available and easy to eat from. They’re also disposable, even often compostable, so you don’t have to worry too much about cleaning up. But you do have to soak them ahead of time so they don’t burn.
If grilling for a smaller group, use flat metal skewers, which are better at piercing through thicker chunks and distributing heat. They are also good for grilling veggies and ground-meat kebabs since the skewers’ shape and extra surface area helps keep them in place on the grill.
Clean Your Grill
Before you begin grilling, say goodbye to the charred remnants of last night’s dinner and clean your grill. If you’re starting on a fairly clean surface, an onion half run along the grates can also do the trick. Then, oil the grates with a neutral oil. Then, get cooking: Place the skewers across the grill grates, or on a diagonal, not parallel to the grates so they don’t fall through.
Use Bread as a Utensil
Flatbread, such as pita or lavash, is a great tool for removing ingredients from a kebab. And, as a bonus, the bread will soak up any juices. Place a piece of flatbread on the skewer and gently press down with one hand as you pull out the skewer with the other.
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Recipe: Shish Tawook
A beloved “fast food” chicken kebab, shish tawook (also spelled “taouk”) is popular across the Middle East. The name is Turkish in origin, shish meaning “skewer” and tawook “chicken.” The marinade base of yogurt, lemon juice and garlic is brightened with a medley of fragrant spices. This version uses paprika, cinnamon, oregano and ground ginger, with a little tomato paste for colour and richness. Chicken breasts are best for these kebabs as they keep their shape and are easier to skewer than thighs, and an overnight marinade ensures they stay tender. Flat ½-inch metal skewers make for easier grilling and even heat distribution, but you can also use wooden skewers. Serve over rice, or make shish tawook wraps with toum, tomatoes (grilled or fresh) and Middle Eastern-style pickles (especially good with a side of French fries).
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Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 35 minutes, plus 6-24 hours marinating
Ingredients:
For the kebabs:
½ cup full-fat plain yogurt
½ cup lemon juice (from 1 to 2 lemons)
8 garlic cloves, finely grated
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
1 teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon black pepper
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts (2 large), cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
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For serving (optional)
Warmed lavash, pita or rice
Toum
Halved grilled tomatoes or sliced tomatoes
Middle Eastern-style pickles
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Preparation:
1. In a large bowl, combine the yogurt, lemon juice, garlic, olive oil, tomato paste, salt, paprika, cinnamon, oregano, ginger and pepper and stir until blended. Add the chicken and toss to coat well in the marinade. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 6 hours (and preferably 24 hours).
2. If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 30 minutes prior to grilling. Heat a gas grill to medium-high (400 degrees), or prepare a charcoal grill. Remove the chicken from the fridge 30 minutes prior to grilling.
3. For easier skewering, place a piece of chicken on a cutting board, gently hold it down with one hand as you skewer with the other and continue with the rest, about 6 pieces per skewer. Arrange the chicken pieces close to each other so they remain juicy.
4. When the grill is hot, clean the grill and oil the grates. Add the skewers and grill with the lid open, turning occasionally, until lightly charred and cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer the skewers to a platter, place a piece of flatbread, like lavash or pita, on the skewer and gently press down with one hand as you pull out the skewer with the other hand, or use a fork to slide the meat off the skewer. Serve right away, or cover to keep warm and juicy. The New York Times