In Oman, No Two Celebrations Are the Same

Oman is a country of layered traditions, where celebrations shift subtly from one village to another. What may seem uniform at a distance reveals, up close, a rich mosaic of practices shaped by history, geography and community. To truly understand it, one must move through these places and witness how each tells its story differently.
For Hamdoon al Hashimi, this realisation has become a personal pursuit. Drawn to the depth of Omani culture, he has taken to traveling across villages, documenting traditions as they are lived rather than simply remembered. His goal is not only to observe, but to piece together a broader picture of Oman, one celebration at a time.
This past Eid, his journey began in old Al Khoudh, a village known for preserving long-standing customs. Arriving before sunrise in new attire, he made his way to the open-air prayer ground. What stood out was the calm, deliberate rhythm of the gathering. There was no rush. After prayers, men formed lines, exchanging greetings slowly and intentionally, extending the moment beyond ritual into something more communal.
Then came an unexpected moment. A cannon was fired to mark the start of the celebration. The sharp blast cut through the morning, followed by rising smoke and dust. For Hamdoon, it was a striking discovery, a tradition unfolding just 20 kilometres from home, yet entirely new to him.

Soon after, the village came alive with movement. Men formed a procession through narrow alleys, performing razha, a traditional chant driven by rhythm and repetition. The sound echoed between mud houses as families gathered at doorways to watch. It was not a staged performance, but a shared experience, with the entire village taking part, whether actively or from the sidelines. The procession moved steadily for over an hour before reaching the village centre, where older structures quietly anchor the present to the past.
By evening, Hamdoon’s journey continued inland towards the Nizwa region, to the village of Al Kharasen. Here, the focus shifted from spectacle to collective effort. The village is home to one of Oman’s oldest communal shuwa tanours, where families prepare marinated meat wrapped in banana leaves and placed inside woven palm bags known as khasfah.
By nightfall, hundreds of these bundles, between 280 and 300, are gathered around a single pit, several metres wide and deep, filled with burning wood and charcoal. At precisely 8 pm, the village comes together. Everyone participates as the bundles are lowered quickly into the pit in a coordinated effort before it is sealed to cook overnight.
This practice, overseen by Mahfudh bin Eisa Ambusaidi, has continued for more than 400 years. What began as a practical solution has become a symbol of unity. Even the smallest details reflect this spirit, as families mark their khasfah with unique identifiers to distinguish them.
The following day, the pit is opened and each family retrieves its share. A small fee helps sustain the tradition for future generations.
Hamdoon’s journey reveals a simple truth: these are not just traditions, but lived experiences that require presence. From the echo of a cannon in Al Khoudh to the shared labour of the tanour in Al Kharasen, each village offers a unique lens on celebration. Together, they form a living narrative, one that continues to unfold.