Mexico wants Adidas to pay up after Mexican-American designer launches Indigenous-inspired shoe

In recent years, the global fashion industry has come under increasing scrutiny for its apparent tendency to misappropriate and copy traditional Indigenous designs from regions around the world, often without credit or compensation to the communities of origin. This ongoing issue has prompted several countries, including Mexico, to take a stand against multinational companies accused of exploiting cultural heritage for commercial gain.
The latest controversy involves an incident between the Mexican government, its local artisans, and the footwear giant Adidas. Mexico has formally sought action against Adidas following a dispute over a product developed in collaboration with U.S.-based Mexican-American designer Willy Chavarria. Chavarria’s 'Oaxaca Slip-On' shoes, a sneaker model featuring the woven pattern of traditional huarache sandals from the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca, have sparked widespread controversy.
According to authorities, the design closely reinterprets a traditional Indigenous huarache, specifically originating from Villa Hidalgo Yalalag, a region renowned for its Indigenous artisans and craftwork. Critics in Mexico argued that although Chavarria's design aimed to celebrate Oaxacan culture, it failed to provide credit or economic benefits to the local artisans who originally created the traditional footwear. Moreover, the shoes were manufactured in China, further fueling claims of cultural exploitation and economic injustice.

Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum expressed her government's stance during a recent press conference, emphasizing that 'big companies often take products, ideas, and designs from Indigenous communities.' She announced that Mexico is exploring legal avenues to ensure proper restitution and protection of its cultural heritage, referencing previous actions against fashion giants such as Zara’s parent company, Inditex, and Louis Vuitton.
Deputy Culture Minister Marina Nunez confirmed that Adidas had contacted Oaxaca officials to discuss “restitution to the people who were plagiarized,” marking a step toward resolving the dispute. Chavarria, who was born in the United States to an Irish-American mother and a Mexican-American father, issued a heartfelt statement on Saturday, expressing regret over the situation. He stated that he was 'deeply sorry that the shoe was appropriated in this design and not developed in direct and meaningful partnership with the Oaxacan community.' He clarified that his intention was to honor Oaxaca's vibrant cultural and artistic spirit, but acknowledged his approach fell 'short of the respect and collaboration the community deserved.'
Chavarria, known for his work bringing Latino issues to light—including a controversial collection addressing gang violence at El Salvador’s notorious CECOT prison—had previously explained that his collaboration with Adidas was meant to celebrate his cultural heritage. However, the controversy highlights the broader issue of fashion brands leveraging Indigenous motifs without appropriate recognition or benefits.
The Mexican government emphasized its commitment to defending its cultural patrimony, with President Sheinbaum stating, 'It's collective intellectual property. There must be compensation. The heritage law must be complied with.' This case underscores the ongoing fight by Mexico and other nations to protect their traditional arts and designs from unauthorized commercial use, with previous complaints filed against brands like Shein, Zara, and Carolina Herrera. —Reuters