October ‘Folk’ Festival finds its way to Oman

Georgina Benison -

Many people have heard about Oktoberfest, but not a lot know of its origins. Oktoberfest started in 1810 to celebrate the marriage of Crown Prince Ludwig on October 12, who later became King Ludwig I, to Princess Therese Von Saxony-Hildburghhausen. The wedding was celebrated in Bavaria. The citizens were invited to attend the Festivities, held on the field in front of the Munich city gates to celebrate the happy Royal event. Since then the fields have been called “Theresienwiese” (Theresa’s Meadow) shortened by locals to ‘Wies’n’.

Horse races, held in the presence of the Royal Family, marked the close of the event that was enjoyed as a festival throughout Bavaria. The decision to repeat the horse races in the subsequent year gave rise to the tradition of ‘Oktoberfest’ or Folk Festival. The festival site began to be taken up by a fun-fair and the first carousel and swings were set up in 1818. By 1870 the fairground trade continued to grow and develop throughout Germany.

So how is this Saxon festival relevant to Oman and why should it be celebrated so far from Europe? There are certainly camel and horse races held throughout Oman, and any excuse to enjoy the fresh outdoors must be a good thing. There have been at least four hotels in Muscat which have chosen this month to begin outdoor food, music and revelry in anticipation of the clement winter season. All, by coincidence, have outlets by the sea, so one can feel the ocean breeze and fresh air during the autumn festivities. One venue has had the foresight to postpone outdoor dining to the end of October in expectation of cooler weather.

So what can residents of Muscat experience at a traditional feast? The first thing is the garb; Lederhosen and Dirndl! Traditional Bavarian costume dictates a coloured flared skirt with apron, white blouse and laced bodice for ladies, while men wear the iconic leather breeches with braces and shirt for the authentic effect. Of course, the attire is not obligatory, but it might help visiting guests get into the spirit.

And to set the mood there is always a live Oompah band, with lively polkas, waltzes and marches played by brass and accordion. One favourite activity is the Chicken Dance, a fun and interactive song with a catchy, up-beat tune – and some very silly movement. If you feel like singing you can join in – but if you don’t know the words people often contribute scatty yodelling effects – an oscillating style of singing, low to high, usually associated with Switzerland.

All this dancing and singing would help anyone to work up quite an appetite – and that is where the best part of the banquet comes in. German kitchen is not well known around the world, as say French or Italian, Chinese or Thai food. So here is an opportunity for adventurous party-goers to sample some of the finest of Bavarian delicacies. The most famous items would be veal or beef bratwurst, schnitzel, sauerkraut – a zesty pickled cabbage - and of course, pretzels, a doughy base for meat or cheese toppings.

To experience the genuine article, created, cooked and served by a genuine Deutche-chef, one could do no better than head to one of the ongoing functions at the weekend and absorb the atmosphere and vibes. At the newly opened Kempinski Hotel at Al Mouj, Muscat, there is a beachfront lounge, so close to the beach you can almost put your toes in the sand while you sit and savour the delicious fayre. ‘Zale’ is the hotel’s beach front lounge.

It boasts a chef from Germany who arrived in Oman just six months ago, and he shares sumptuous German dishes with the Omani public during Oktoberfest. Chef Matthias Busse cooks up a beef goulash soup, amazingly served in a bread roll instead of a bowl. Sausage and emmental slivers provided a side salad, while a chicken sausage, laced with mustard and tomato sauce, vied with ‘Koenigsberger klopse’ in caper sauce with mashed potato.

The Deutschlanders certainly eat a lot of potatoes. All dishes feature mashed, roast or warm potato salad. Chicken livers and onion, cooked until tender are seductively juicy – but should not be tainted with false sweetness according to authenticity. The icing on the cake – or rather the pièce de resistance - must be Braised Beef Roulade with beef bacon, red cabbage in Mustard sauce – and yes – served on a bed of mash. Vegetarian pasta in local parlance becomes a delectable peppery ‘Cheese Spätzle’ with fried onions. All this is enjoyed to the accompaniment if the 8-piece brass band, resident for the weekends, ‘Die Schunkel Koenige’. And the best part is that even when the bunting and fanfare is over, Zale will continue to serve its own bespoke menu. With the weather only set to improve, more toes can sink into the soft, white Omani sand while dining by the ocean waves.